Dear People:
These two accounts are by Ken and Mathew (or Matthius) about their experiences on the 2011 Bedwell Centennial Trail work party. If anyone wants to add their own thoughts on the trail, or the Bedwell issue, or Strathcona Park in general, please send them along. I apologize for my absent computer skills. Karl.
Mathew’s Account
Late August this year, Vancouver Islanders finally found themselves enjoying a much yearned for bout of good weather after a particularly wet and disappointing July. It was perfect for the celebration organized by the Friends of Strathcona Park (FOSP). August 20th, was a day celebrated by more than 100 participants at a festival held in Strathcona Park. The day included canoeing, kayaking, short and long hikes as well as booths and food presented by members of various Vancouver Island clubs and other organizations. The event also hosted several speeches by long time members and activists who spoke of the history of Strathcona Park and the challenges the friends faced and personal sacrifices made in order to preserve the park.
The Friends of Strathcona Park is a group dedicated to the preservation of the park for the intended use under the original master plan. Members of the FOSP have been instrumental in the long term preservation of the park and the fight to prevent the abuse of the park by government and private industry. As well as legal challenges, one of the key ways that the FOSP insure the preservation of the park is by promoting its use.
The Bedwell Centennial Trail was constructed by the FOSP in 1992. It traverses 34km between Bedwell Lake and Bedwell Bay. The trail is a labour of love by the FOSP for ten years the trail had seen moderate use but was beginning to show its age. There were numerous windfalls and erosion that necessitated the need for maintenance of the light impact trail. Additionally, some sections of the trail needed to be rerouted as engineers have indicated that the Living Bridge that crosses the Bedwell River is no longer safe to traverse as there are several stringers dangling from the bottom. For the past two consecutive years, the FOSP have obtained work permits to do trail maintenance in the Bedwell Valley to reroute some sections and clear others.
In 2010, FOSP brought a small work party in to start trail maintenance on the west end of the trail, from Claoyquot Wilderness Resort in Bedwell Bay to Sam Craig Creek. At this time the trail was rerouted so that the Living Bridge is no longer required to complete the hike. In 2010, the friends cut the trail clear up to the Sam Craig Creek.
In 2011, the friends received another permit allowing them to cut from Bedwell Lake to Ashwood Creek. The work was completed by 30 eager volunteers over three days. Cutting was quick as the trail is well traversed.
As a member of the work party, I had the choice to continue on past You Creek, crossing the Spine of Vancouver Island and leave via Bedwell Bay by water Taxi to Tofino. I jumped at chance to cross Vancouver Island by foot! The highest point of the trail is Baby Bedwell Lake. From this point, the remainder of the trail is primarily downhill, which is often following overgrown logging roads and the Bedwell River. A particular highlight of this trail is walking through a preserved section of the Bedwell Valley filled with old growth cedar and rich flora. For some unknown reason this section was never logged at the time that the Valley was removed from the park.
The Bedwell Centennial Trail is 34 km long from the trail head on the Jim Mitchell Lake Road near the south end of Buttle Lake to the head of Bedwell Inlet. Prior arrangements need to be made with a water taxi to get to Tofino. The trip is best done in July through September when stream levels are low. Allow 3 to 4 days one way, and travel only when good weather is predicted. Heavy rains can quickly make dry streams impassable, but they soon recover in a day or two. Though the trail is of moderate difficulty there are a few sections that provide short challenges, like logs crossing rushing water.
Between the work completed in 2010 and 2011, there remains only one short section of the trail uncut, about 4 km. Even this section is easily traversable and is well marked with ribbons hanging every ten to fifteen feet. Even with this short section the trail is one of the most beautiful and enjoyable hikes I have done on Vancouver Island. It takes the hiker from the alpine to the ocean and crosses through sections of the park that have not had regular visitors in over 60 years.
FOSP continues to advocate for light trail use and the continued exclusion of horses in the Park. Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, a private company that caters to affluent adventure seekers, is currently seeking permits that will allow them to bring their clients into the park by horse. This remains a big concern for FOSP as the original master plan does not allow for horses to be used within this area of the park. It is the belief of FOSP that the completion of the Bedwell Centenial Trail will show that there is already an established trail and this will prevent future applications by CWR from gaining a foothold. It is also the belief of the friends that the interests of private companies remains the primary reason why the FOSP cannot obtain a permit to cut the final 4 Km of trail between You Creek and Sam Craig Creek.
For more information about the FOSP and a full route description of the Bedwell Centennial Trail visit the groups website; http://friendsofstrathcona.org/bedwell-centennial-trail/
Sincerely and Truly, Matthius Lettington
A First Hand Account of Last Summer’s Trail Building
by Ken Van de burgt
It was a dark and stormy night. I had
commitments till Sunday afternoon and only
started up the Bedwell Lakes trail at about
7PM with the intention of meeting up with
the FOSP work party. It started raining as I
made my way up the trail. I was glad to be
making camp, soaking wet, in the dark,
with blowing wind and rain, on the tent pad
at Baby Bedwell Lake 3 hours later. The
tent pads tend to get water flowing along
the boards under the tent and it is a chore
to get the tent tied down with limited string
but camping on the flooded ground would
have been worse.
My first experience with the Bedwell
Valley was in the summer of 2004. I
paddled my kayak from Tofino with all my
hiking gear stuffed in the cockpit and
strapped to the deck. My first big surprise
was at the head of Bedwell Sound where my
brand new edition of Hiking Trails III failed
entirely to mention about the resort that had
been built there. Leaving my kayak on the
beach, I hiked on the old logging road as far
as the ford on the Bedwell River just below
Ashwood Creek. I wasn’t able to find the
route from there and I turned back. The hike
had been a disappointment because it was in
a dark dreary second growth scrub forest
and an exercise in getting my face slapped
by the brush that pretty much filled in the
entire trail. Obviously, no trail maintenance
had been done in years.
My second experience was in 2010 when I
Trail Builders on the dock at CWR
Those who traversed the entire trail from
alpinbe to ocean.
participated with the Friends in building a new
trail from near the only remaining logging bridge
to Sam Craig creek. It was a much better
experience because the new trail got above the
gloomy recovering industrial forest on the valley
floor and opened up to views of the mountains.
The logging and mining have caused a lot of
damage, but there are still natural treasures to be
found here and the new trees are beginning to
mask the worst of the scars left by industrial
activity. I met a lot of like-minded people who are
not happy about the direction BC Parks is taking
in mismanaging our Park and found a positive
expression of that frustration in the work
building a new trail.
I packed up quite late on Monday afternoon waiting for
the weather to settle and had just about enough time to
get to the Bedwell Lake campsite and set up in the light.
Every creek was swollen with rain and melting snow
from the huge late summer snow pack. Wet foot
crossings were needed to ford the creeks that flow into
Bedwell Lake. You could see water lapping at the
remains of foundations of BC Parks poorly engineered
bridges that had been washed away years ago.
Most of the work party had gone up Saturday and had
worked all day Sunday. I encountered several people,
who had been in the work party, on their way out. The
stories were conflicting as to how far the work had been
completed. The common theme was that people had
gotten soaked in the wet weather. The information
suggested that trail had been reopened to the landslide
and that the party of 11 people below the landslide were
nearly finished their work to reopen the trail to
Ashwood Creek.
On Tuesday morning in doubtful looking weather I
decided to hike at least as far as You Creek. I had never
been on that section of trail and I wanted the
experience.
The crossing at K2 Creek was a bit intimidating; the
bridge consists of two logs (placed in mid 1990’s) with
no handrail and the water was roaring underneath. I
noted the simple design seems to work a lot better than
bridges built by BC Parks that tend to be poorly placed
and incapable of managing the snow load. From there it
was easy and pleasant walking down the newly brushed
out trail.
I met two of the lower valley work party making their
way out and so there were nine when I caught up with
the work party at You Creek. As it turned out work was
not as close to completion as I had been led to believe.
Clearing trail is heavy work. We used hand tools
consisting of saws and garden clippers. Some of the
deadfall was more than a foot in diameter. The saw
tended to bind as weight shifted around, particularly
when there were several trees piled on each other. Due
to my late arrival I got only a part of the experience,
working just Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday
morning and I found it exhausting. The rest of the crew
had been at work since Saturday.
On Wednesday afternoon we reached Ashwood Creek,
the limit of the volunteer agreement worked out by
FOSP with BC Parks. We had lunch, hoisted our packs
and route bashed along the true left bank of the Bedwell
River to a beautiful camp on a gravel bar near Sam
Craig Creek. The route was flagged during
reconnaissance work done by FOSP this summer. There
is a huge logjam here consisting of stumps and wood
debris. The logjam is responsible for the river’s course
changing here.
Thursday we hiked along the trail that was cleared last
year from Sam Craig Creek to the Gail McGee Bridge.
My pack was heavy and I was quite happy to leave the
route bashing and get onto the previously cleared route.
Friday we followed the road through Crown Forest and
CWR land to the tidewater at Bedwell Sound. The
water taxi showed up as arranged to bring us to Tofino.
A chartered bus brought us back to Courtenay.
I hope BC Parks will allow volunteers to complete
clearing the route from Ashwood Creek to Sam Craig
Creek. The rain event that we encountered would have
made it impossible to ford the Bedwell River at
Ashwood Creek; the route along the true left bank
eliminates that ford and the crossing of the condemned
logging bridge. Walking the new route is a much more
pleasant experience than walking that old logging road
could ever be. And of course, we don’t need
commercial operators building trails, bridges, and other
unwanted intrusive infrastructure in our parks.
Additional comments on the trail project
by Karl Stevenson
From the FOSP standpoint, the Bedwell issue is (like
all park issues) very complicated, but in one way it’s
also very simple: The government wants to open
Strathcona Park up to high-impact commercial
operations and we don’t. We’ve been working very
hard to prevent the government and a commercial resort
from having their way in the Bedwell Valley for
approximately seven years.
We don’t want a high-impact commercial trail in the
Bedwell Valley, or in any other area of Strathcona
Park. This is why we’ve expended so much time,
money, and energy in building a low-impact non-
commercial trail in the Bedwell. This
year we could easily have completed the remaining
short section of the Bedwell Centennial Trail (we had
the volunteers and we were ready) but the government
refused to give us permission.
The Battle for the Bedwell is far from over. We are
the process of preparing a Bedwell
Centennial Trail guide, along with
photographs, a list of volunteers, and other
interesting information for the FOSP web-
site. I’m more grateful than I can ever
possibly say to all the volunteers who have
given their time and energy in support of
our wonderful park. Thanks once again. Karl.